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iATN Review: Newsletter for Members
Third Quarter 2015 EditionWorld's First & Largest Network of Automotive Professionals
Table of Contents
Introduction
Using Running Cylinder Waveform to Analyze Cam/Crk Deviation
Pressure/Vacuum Analysis
Alternator Ripple Help
Toyota P0606 - Don't Replace the ECM
Subaru Exhaust Valve Guides
GM Upfitter Electrical Best Practices Manual Updated
Timing Marks Off
Ford Truck PATS Code B1681, or Not Able to Reprogram PCM
A Friend Called Me the Other Day
2014 Cruze GMLAN Fault
Running Compression Waveform Help
ViDa, CardaQ, and Other Software Issues
Best Tips Thus Far

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Once again we have several members who've been recognized by their peers for their outstanding contributions to iATN in the past quarter, featured in this edition of the iATN Review. The articles include three discussions on the trending topic of pressure waveform analysis, a tip on Toyotas with a P0606 and other considerations prior to ECM replacement, a tip on walking Subaru valve guides, Ford PCM reprogramming issues, GM network issues, some lengthy discussion on PC configurations when utilizing OEM software and j-boxes, alternator waveform performance analysis and a discussion highlighting a variety of great technical tips previous shared in the forums.

We hope you enjoy this edition of the Review, and if you have any comments or questions, please don't hesitate to contact us.



Scott Brown
iATN President

  Full Article


Using Running Cylinder Waveform to Analyze Cam/Crk Deviation
Technical Theory Forum
Anthony from New York

Another shop presented us this car with a P0016 - CRANKSHAFT/CAMSHAFT TIMING MISALIGNMENT. The misalignment PID indicated something around 40 degrees. They changed CMP and CKP (don't ask me what hard evidence lead them to do that) to no avail. Car would run (not well but mobile) when cold then progressively weaken and die. Would restart no problem; run weakly and then die after a bit. When it is dying gas richness is evident (plugs black with soot - not hard carbon).

Car is a used car dealer's - fresh from auction - towed to prime shop - no owner (driver) to ask when, where, what; that is we haven't any insight to repair/driveability history.

Prime shop wanted us to determine if this car had a tone wheel problem or a cam/crank drive belt problem. They did not want to go all invasive on the car before we had a crack at diagnosis using our non-invasive methods.

We decided to go right to a running cylinder waveform analysis via our Fluke PV350. The premise was if the crank flex plate tone wheel was the culprit the valve timing would be OK in the waveform but if the timing belt system was awry then the waveform would physically confirm what the PID was indicating via electronics.

The results we gave to the prime shop is attached [2004 Chrysler Pacifica, Engine/Propulsion Document]. They are now waiting for the used car dealer to authorize the timing belt repairs (that may go beyond a mere belt replace once they get in there).

Any of your comments or questions are welcome. Best regards and I high-five iATN and its members!

  Full Article


Pressure/Vacuum Analysis
Technical Theory Forum
Robert from Massachusetts

2002 Jeep Liberty Limited, Engine/Propulsion Waveform2002 Jeep Liberty Limited, Engine/Propulsion Waveform
This vehicle is already diagnosed but I thought the resident transducer experts might like to take a crack at diagnosing this from my waveform captures.

The complaint is "engine runs very rough" NO Codes are stored. I decide to start with a relative compression test relative compression Ok, cylinder 2 definitely has low compression.

I'll post a couple snapshots of compression data and the scope files. Let me know if you can figure out the problem from the data.

3.7 Cranking 3.7 Running 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited

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Alternator Ripple Help
Technical Theory Forum
Roman from Washington

2005 Ford F-150 XLT, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform2005 Ford F-150 XL, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform
I'm working on understanding alternator ripple patterns, and this is my first shot at diagnosing an alternator based on a waveform. The vehicle is an 05 f150 with a motorcraft alternator that is approx. 4 months old. A week ago it had a 60 second episode of overcharging, just once. Voltage drop across B+ wire to alternator is good.

What does everyone think about these waveforms? Concern was not present at the time of these captures.

[2005 Ford F-150 XLT, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XLT, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XLT, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XLT, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XLT, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XL, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XL, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XL, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XL, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

[2005 Ford F-150 XL, BATT/Charging/Starting Waveform]

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Toyota P0606 - Don't Replace the ECM
Technical Tips Forum
Robert from Massachusetts

2007 Toyota Camry LE, ECM/Inputs/Outputs Scan Data
The iATN archives helped me on this car so I wanted to contribute back and hope someone else finds this helpful.

The complaint was the MIL on. The first time I saw this car was from a referral by my local trans shop. They asked me to flash the tcm per toyota bulletin for a shifting issue. The flash went fine, now it's a month later and the Mil is on.

I pull code P0606. Description is ECM/PCM processor. A discrepancy in voltage levels between the main cpu and the sub cpu. The code chart is very short for this code, it says, If you have code P0606 go to step A. Step A says to replace ECM.

Ok, I've been doing this long enough to know that I better not replace the ECM just like that without doing some research and testing. Since this is my first time with this particular code I decide some iATN research is in order.

I come across this post in the TechHelp archive: 2006 Toyota RAV4 3.5L MIL Lamp on.

Ok, now I have something to go on. It seems that problems with the O2 sensors can cause this code to set. I set my scanner to graph the rear O2's. With the car running I start wiggling and tugging on the sensor wires. When I move the wire just right on B2S2 this happens rear o2 glitch

I replaced the sensor and cleared the code. It's been several days since returning the car and all is good.

This is the value of iATN and collaborating in general. I shudder to think about how this job could have gone if I had no access to any further information than what was in the Factory trouble code chart.

The information I found was more than a silver bullet. It informed me of other possibilities I was unaware of and it gave me something to test so I could prove out the problem for myself.

The conclusion is that I was able to fix a potential nightmare problem in a very short time and I learned some valuable information that may help me another day when there is no other help to be found. A win win as the saying goes.

  Full Article


Subaru Exhaust Valve Guides
Technical Tips Forum
Leo from New York

Exhaust valve guideExhaust valve guide
During Subaru help requests for intermittent misfires, many replies suggest checking the exhaust valve guides. For those who may not know exactly what they are looking for, I've included 3 images: good, bad, and deceptive.

Good valve guides look like this: Exhaust valve guide with no witness marks on the valve stems.

Bad valve guides can be out of position like this: Exhaust valve guide

Deceptive valve guides can be in the proper position when you lower the exhaust, but be sure to rotate the engine to close the exhaust valves of the cylinder you're having the issue with, because you may find this: Exhaust valve guide This exhaust valve is fully closed!!! The "cleaned" section of the valve stem is from the guide drifting out, causing misfire, then drifting back into position. Hence the lack of active misfire at the time of diagnosis.

I hope you find this information helpful.

  Full Article


GM Upfitter Electrical Best Practices Manual Updated
Technical Tips Forum
Michael from Alabama

GM Upfitter Electrical Best Practices Manual (PDF)

"The scope of this Electrical Manual is to define General Motors recommendations for the design and installation of non-OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) low-voltage electrical systems and components in GM vehicles by personnel engaged in the conversion of automotive vehicles. Also included in this manual are guidelines for the interfacing of Upfitter installed electrical systems to the General Motors OEM electrical system. This is not a "how to" manual. It assumes the reader has technical expertise in the area. Ultimate responsibility for all work rests with the Upfitters."

Lots of free, useful information here, including wire gauge and ampacity charts, terminal and connector recommendations, and guidelines.

P. 49 covers crimp-and-seal splices. The part numbers for the recommended crimp plier tool are:

GM: 12085115

Kent-Moore: J-38125-8

Tyco Electronics: AD-1522-1 Crimp Tool (047011-000)

Note that GM now recommends TXL wire in wiring repairs:

Use TXL Wire in Wiring Repairs [sandyblogs.com]

GM part numbers for TXL wire can be found here:

TXL Wire Part Numbers [sandyblogs.com]

  Full Article


Timing Marks Off
Technical Tips Forum
Robert from Delaware

I'm sure this has been posted before but I wanted to share because every shop I share this tip with thinks its genius. I figured this out in desperation one Friday when I rushed a 2.4 DOHC Chrysler timing belt job. I got it done and found out real quick that I had it 2 teeth off. I removed the top timing cover and verified with a TDC indicator which cam was off. I figured out that if I put the smooth end of a 1/4" drill bit in the teeth and slowly turned the engine over, I could make the belt jump a tooth.

This saved me several hours of time and I have since shared it with others who have had great luck trying it. Basically you install the drill on the side that you need the cam sprocket to move to. So to advance it you put it on the right side of the sprocket and turn the engine over counter clockwise and grab the drill bit before it falls down in behind the lower cover.

Hope this tip saves someone some trouble.

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Ford Truck PATS Code B1681, or Not Able to Reprogram PCM
Technical Tips Forum
Cesar from Texas

I recently have one customer that bring me his VW for AC work, but when He was ready to leave on his 2005 F150, with a V8 engine, I heard the truck was cranking and not starting, after awhile He did ask me to check his truck too, and by that time that truck it was not cranking anymore, customer stated that never happen before.

After checking for codes I found code B1681 and if I remember alright also P1601, I did check power and grounds to PATS module just to find everything OK, also security light was not blinking, however after I disconnect battery and touch cables together security light start blinking again, replacing PATS module did not change anything, and attempt to Re-program or replace PCM end up on Programming error.

One thing that I noticed when programming was failing is that on the Ignition On and OFF cycling, always fail after asking me twice to turn off switch, Problem was that ECM was never going sleep, and was staying alive even with Ignition on, After checking fuse 34 on fuse box I notice that was not loosing voltage with Key Off.

Then I remove PCM power relay and fuse 34 was feedback by fuse 32 from a bad AC relay, I found some on this information on other information sources, after a new AC relay I was able to Reprogram ECM and no more problems with PATS.

  Full Article


A Friend Called Me the Other Day
Shop Management Forum
Becky from Nebraska

I'd never met her before, didn't know who she was or even anything about her.

The call started out with, "How much to fix a squeal noise when I start the car cold?" It was a classic price shopper phone call.

In many shops, this type of call starts red lights flashing, the loud buzzers going off, a computer voice sternly announcing danger and the Captain alerting everyone to Dive! Dive! Dive! Sand bags are quickly stacked around the front door and barbed wire is rapidly dispatched to discourage these intruders.

I know that many industry experts say that you should NEVER give a price over the phone. You have to get them into the shop first.

When I stand and look at this from a distance, what I see is an underlying message of distrust. We shouldn't give a price because we apparently can't trust the caller to be sane and rational when they arrive? We can't trust the customer to accept the honesty of their situation when it may turn out that what they asked for won't fix the car?

So, I'm supposed to shuck and jive them with all sorts of explanations as to why I won't give them a price? I can't really tell them that I can't give a price because I don't trust them to make a rational decision as to who they will ultimately trust to service their car?

I don't look at a price shopper phone call as a threat. I look at a price shopper phone call as an opportunity to make a new friend. They are shopping. I have stuff to sell. If what they want is what I've got, it's up to me to make it as easy as possible for them to give me their money.

I'm actually very upfront with everyone about this fact. When asked if they can pick up a car after hours, I reply that they can do whatever they want. I want to make it easy to take your money. Want to pay be credit card? I take it over the phone. Want to pay by check after hours? Drop it in the slot in the door. Same with cash.

Since I'm more than willing to trust them to pay, they become comfortable to trust me to treat them right.

This price shopping stuff isn't about price at all. It's an exercise in trust. It's an opportunity to find people who want to do business with each other and see if there's a mutual fit.

As a matter of fact, it's my opinion that most price shoppers aren't really price shopping at all. I believe they're looking for a friend.

But, I digress... :)

So, this woman calls and asks how much to fix a noise on a cold start? She was nice, I was nice. My classic response to all price questions was, "So, what's going on? What do you drive?"

I need this information in order to provide a price quote. I nearly always give out prices on the phone.

She had a Lexus SUV, her Dad had already replaced the serpentine belt and there was a squeal noise when started.

I engaged her in friendly conversation, said it could be as simple as a loose belt, which might be quickly tightened to fix her concern. I went on to say that it could be something else, but it shouldn't take much time to use a listening device to isolate the noise.

I said that I could provide her with some information, or possibly even fix it, for XX. I quoted the time to tighten a belt.

I then proceeded to use the "assumptive close", in which you assume they'll bring the car in, since they have a car that needs attention and you fix cars. :) I asked when she'd like to get the car in, I offered to do it tomorrow morning.

We had a nice exchange, she dropped off the car. It was a loose belt, we tightened it for exactly what I'd quoted.

We also discussed other needs of the car for future visits. She shook my hand and said she'd be back often. We're now friends. We trust each other.

Every time my phone rings, it's a potential friend. It's never a threat. Just because the occasional caller may be looking for the lowest possible price doesn't mean we're a match. It certainly doesn't mean I shouldn't tell them what I think it will take to fix their concerns.

I've had many callers tell me that I was more helpful than anyone else they called. I've had many end up at my shop and I know for a fact that I wasn't the lowest price they got.

Answering the phone is nothing more than sifting through potential prospects to see how many friends you can find. Real friends will spend money at your shop, even when they might find the job for less elsewhere, because they trust you.

Trust starts with telling the truth and trusting others. Even strangers on the phone. :)

I hope this is helpful to some.

  Full Article


2014 Cruze GMLAN Fault
Technical Discussion Forum
James from Florida

2014 Chevrolet Cruze LS, ECM/Inputs/Outputs Scan Data2014 Chevrolet Cruze LS, ECM/Inputs/Outputs Scan Data
Here's a quick Cruze GMLAN repair that may help someone not used to dealing with GMLAN on a daily basis.

A 2014 Cruze was driven in with a complaint of "Service Power Steering System" and "Service Traction System" warnings illuminated along with the ABS, Brakes and Traction lamps illuminated.

A fast scan with GDS shows this... 2014 Chevrolet Cruze LS, ECM/Inputs/Outputs Scan Data

Looks like the EBCM doesn't want to talk to anybody. Lets look at the Diagnostic Data Bus Tool .... 2014 Chevrolet Cruze LS, ECM/Inputs/Outputs Scan Data

OK - that confirms it - hows the high speed data lines look? 2014 Chevrolet Cruze LS, ECM/Inputs/Outputs Scan Data

Well, obviously a problem exists. The four items that any high speed GMLAN module needs to communicate over the network are power, ground, data lines, and discrete communications enable signal voltage. Checking the resistance between terminals 6 and 14 in the DLC shows 61 ohms and all other high speed modules are communicating so data line problems are unlikely

I unplugged the EBCM and checked both B+ inputs with a test lamp - OK - Looking at the single ground connection, I saw the terminal partially unseated and backed out. Why? It was probably not fully seated on initial assembly but was touching well enough for a connection. There was a large dent on the left front fender in the area of the EBCM. Possibly this completed the unseating of the terminal. I popped the CPA out and fully seated the terminal and reseated the CPA. It locked in place well. After reassembling, all the lights went out and I cleared all codes and took another look at the High Speed data lines. 2014 Chevrolet Cruze LS, ECM/Inputs/Outputs Scan Data

Fast and easy - Probably a 30 minute diagnosis and repair. Hope it helps someone out in the future.

  Full Article


Running Compression Waveform Help
Technical Discussion Forum
Kevin from California

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Waveform2005 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5, Engine/Propulsion Waveform
Good Morning everyone,

Some good friends of mine were looking at a used van. They asked me to look it over and tell them what I thought. It had a leaky radiator, and worn ball joints, but otherwise was very clean, 87k miles on the clock. Idles smooth as glass, and starts up very quickly.

Test drive revealed it was very sluggish under a load and up semi steep grades. As in it wont go over 60mph uphill. Scan Data revealed the Catalyst and 02 monitor had not run to completion yet. No Dtc's were set, but Test id's 57, 58 and 72 are all failing.

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Scan Data

I told them I think it would be better to pass on this van. Friends go back, tell the dealer what had been found, and he knocks off 300 clams and that was good enough to seal the deal, sigh. It passed a smog inspection, which I thought was unusual.

But anyhow, a week later the MIL is on with P0404 EGR Valve Performance/Rationality. I suspected a restricted exhaust from the get go. So...in goes the pressure transducer, Wps500 Range 2, so 1v = 10 psi. I dont get to do this often, so I was pretty excited.

Heres what I got...

Doesnt seems to reveal much at idle...

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Waveform

Marked up for your viewing pleasure.

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Waveform

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Waveform

(Notice Cursor 2 is reading 1.65v, thats 16psi in the exhaust plateau)

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Waveform

.lsm File

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Waveform

I found some other captures in the archives that help illustrate a restricted exhaust, (thanks Shannon Lindsey.) See the pressure pulses (Exhaust Plateau) between the compression towers that rise as rpm's increases?

2005 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5, Engine/Propulsion Waveform]

How about another? See the trend?

[2005 Ford Escape XLT, Emissions Waveform]

Here is a snap throttle with no restriction. (known good)

[1994 Honda Civic DX, Engine/Propulsion Waveform]

Now the Van in question again...See the resemblance? Looks, and feels awfully like a restricted exhaust to me.

[2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE Plus, Engine/Propulsion Waveform]

What do you guys think?

It makes sense too, that an EGR Valve with too much pressure behind it, will flow more than expected and set a rationality code as a result. Can this P0404 really be related to the excessive exhaust back pressure?

Oh btw, at some point the EGR Valve was replaced, and a battery disc performed to reset the EGR learned adaptive values, and the code just returned.

Appreciate all the feedback, Im certainly out of my element doing this kind of testing.

  Full Article


ViDa, CardaQ, and Other Software Issues
Tool & Equipment Forum
Jonathan from Alabama

The purpose of this post is to help those who use pass-through devices to help complete repairs on vehicles. This is not a discussion about OEM tooling vs aftermarket tooling. This is a story about vehicle repair and what it takes to make a successful repair. Also note the virtue of patience that it takes especially when dealing with PC software as well as vehicle software. I will try to include everything that I recall taking place during this week and a half process and I will do my best to accurately answer any questions in regards to the scenario. Please feel free to collaborate upon this story so that others can have something to reference to when dealing with situations of their own. And again please keep the my tool is better than yours banter away from this thread, methodical and logical action is imperative to solving any tough automotive issue and emotion only leads to confusion.

If you are not comfortable with managing PC software and control settings then I suggest that before you invest in any pass-through device to get familiar with doing so. Every manufacturer clearly outlines preferred and minimum PC/Laptop parameters and you must not fudge any of those numbers. Would you fudge bearing clearances on an engine rebuild or preload on a differential overhaul? This is just as critical. Also do not assume that the manufacturer's website is going to have one page dedicated to all of the information you need to walk you through implementation of J programing and communication. Assume the worst and take a few nights combing over the website to get a lay of the land. Lastly there are some instances that you can only get further information on successful connection after purchasing the subscription to the required software. The good thing is that every instance that I have run into there were no surprises, hardware or software purchase requirements to complete connection once you attain a subscription and activate it. That being said Volvo has a link that initiates a download of a program to ensure that your platform meets minimum requirements for their software to work, or so it is thought. What can't be covered is the minutia of details and settings within your PC and Laptop that may hinder a successful repair. Just as a small bit of corrosion in a connector can produce a flood of DTCs, settings like "enable protected mode" in a web browser can cause adverse effects. And sometimes these details will require a phone call or an email submission to a help desk. Again if you are not comfortable making these types of changes on your computer read up and be aware of these settings and only make singular, measurable and informed changes until you reach the desired effect.

The Volvo belongs to a loyal customer and she trusts our judgment and repair explicitly. It came in on a hook with a no-crank issue and a message, "Turn Steering Wheel." Our initial inspection revealed that the starter was not getting voltage to activate and the steering wheel did not lock with the key removed. Some brief research indicated that the problem was likely a faulty steering column lock module (SCL) and would require software to activate a new replacement part. We did not possess the key for our Verus to communicate with the vehicle and a quick look up on Drew Tech revealed that Volvo allows for our Cardaq to have diagnostic and reprogram capabilities. Having used the device on GM, BMW, Mini and Toyota we felt confident that it would work just as well with Volvo. And we soon found out different.

Day 1 Friday After careful review of our laptop requirements we register on the Volvo website and we purchase a ViDa license from Volvo in order to confirm a diagnosis of the vehicle. Currently with Volvo they mail you an installation DVD that must be used to gain access to ViDa, this will change soon. The subscription has a 3 day duration once activated and allows parts, repair, diagnostic and software updating for most vehicle platforms.

Day 2 Monday We receive the DVD and install the software on the DEDICATED laptop. DEDICATED meaning we have never installed any other manufacturer software on this laptop. This is critical to help ensure that no other installed software may interfere with the program provided by disc, download or any other means. Some manufactures software plays well with others and some are completely anti-social and want their own space. Install multiple manufacturer software on one platform at your own risk!!!!!!

Day 3 Tuesday We started to use the software and found out, like with any first time with every program, that we were well behind the curve on navigating the software. In short through the course of a normal workday we found that we had to open an administrative program. You receive a different username than the one you have for the Volvotechinfo website and must set up a user password through an email process. Once you are able to open the administrative icon now on your desktop you must activate the software, assign a user and assign a computer that will operate the primary ViDa program. Unless this is the only car you plan on working on for the day it can take a few hours to navigate through the hoops to open the primary program that allows you to "talk" to the car. While by the end of the day we managed to get ViDa to open but had problems communicating with the vehicle as our passthrough device was not showing up in the program. Then I made a huge mistake!!!! Thinking that there may have been a problem with the DVD install, I removed the program from my laptop and reinstalled the program. Even though I used the same laptop, the re-install crated another computer in my Admin program. This locked me out of ViDa completely because it did not recognize my laptop as an authorized computer for the program. Well this should be no problem right? WRONG!!! You must be logged into the ViDa program with an authorized computer to be able to deactivate the computer. This can't be done through the admin panel!! Time to contact support. Initial support for the Volvo software is by submitting a help request which is like watching colonial ships taking shots across the bow, it is like a forum but with only two users. You submit, via message to Volvo's help desk, a question then you wait....... An hour later I get a reply saying that the other computer had been removed and I could proceed with activation. Activated new computer and still the program did not see my Cardaq. I contacted Drew Tech, it was late in the day and at that time they did not have anything to offer but to remote in and check a few basics. Ultimately Drew Tech at that time suggested I contact Volvo, which I did promptly. I fired another shot across the bow to Volvotechinfo and called it a day.

For day 4 and the rest of the article please read the full article.

  Full Article


Best Tips Thus Far
Technical Tips Forum
Brian from Georgia

Been hanging around this forum for well over a decade, and have been helped by so many tips over the years. I was wondering what the best tips you have gotten from here.

I will prime the pump:

Chris Hopkins' tip about holding the spring or torsion bar to feel a bad wheel bearing. I use that quite often.

Or using the pliers made for removing plastic clips with center inserts, to squeeze electrical connectors to release them. Use this one almost every day!

Anybody else got one or two?

  Full Article
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